A Taste Of History

 

Today, the sixth day of our Trip, we managed to give ourselves a taste of history.

The day began with a change of plans from our itinerary (one of the advantages of do-it-yourself tours), to take advantage of the forecast fine weather (it was still raining when we left Dunedin but rapidly cleared as we headed north).

We stopped first at the little village of Moeraki, driving up to the Whaling Memorial for a splendid view out to sea and across the bay.

Realising the tide was coming in, we drove around the bay a little and visited the Moeraki Boulders before they disappeared beneath the water. 

These spherical boulders, some weighing several tons, are gradually washed out of the bank by tidal action. They can sit on the beach for many years before finally breaking apart and eventually washing away.  We were only just in time to see them.

A short bit of back-tracking and we returned to Moeraki village and drove out to see the Katiki Lighthouse.  There was a long walk here down to see fur seals and nesting red-billed seagulls – my companion made the trip down the hill but I remained at the top, not wanting to make the trek all the way back UP the hill!

By now it was approaching lunchtime.  We had heard good reports about the Fishwife Café at Moeraki and decided to go there and try out their fish and chips.

It was perfect!  My blue cod was so fresh it still tasted of the sea, the batter was thin and crispy, and the chips were crunchy on the outside and soft and fluffy inside.  The best fish and chips I have had in a long, long time.

There are no tables and chairs here, just long benches to lean against – perfect for eating with your fingers while watching the activity going on in the harbour and hearing the waves lap against the wall below us.

Our appetites sated, it was time for a serious bit of driving with no more stops until we reached Oamaru – or so we thought!  How could we resist the idea of visiting an historical farm?

We must have spent a good hour wandering around here (there is a small entry fee).  This farm was instrumental in setting up the first shipments of frozen meat to be exported overseas, and we really enjoyed our visit.

This room was set up to show what living conditions were like for the farm labourers.

We also saw through fully equipped cobbled stables, a granary, and a killing shed (rather a gruesome place with all its realistic models!). 

Outside there was an abundance of farm equipment to look at.  Many of them I remember hanging around in the old barn when I was a child – my father never used them but obviously the previous generation had done so.

After that fascinating trip into agricultural history, we eventually made it to Oamaru.  I love the old white stone buildings in this town – grand buildings were built when the town was established, believing the place would become a central hub (it didn’t).

Unknown to us, there had been a Victorian fete in progress that day – it was closing by the time we arrived but we did see several folk still kitted out in full Victorian dress.

We were booked into the historic Brydone Hotel for our night’s stay (Mark Twain once stayed here!). 

The hotel, built in 1881 of the local white limestone, had enchanting historical décor but not so good parking arrangements!  We were lucky to find a spot in the Loading Zone at the front door so we could check in, and then take the car around the back of the hotel to a private parking area.

Our rooms appeared to have been recently refurbished and, if I leaned a little out the window, I even had a sea view!

Being a Sunday evening, the hotel restaurant was closed (post-covid staff shortages again), so we went across the road to dine at Fat Sally’s before taking a stroll up the street looking at some of the lovely old buildings.

It was a pleasant evening and I slept well that night.

Margaret 😊