After a restless night at my accommodation in Awanui, in
Northland, I left early in the morning and headed down the east coast to the Bay of Islands. I had to call in to see the Mangonui Wharf as
I had heard so much about it and its fish-and-chips shop.
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| The fish shop is on the right of the picture |
Unfortunately the shop was not due to open for another two
hours and I could not wait that long. A sign
outside advertised that they sold “king prawns, kina tubs, Mangonui chowder,
Pacific oysters, hot coffee and cold beer, raw fish salad, smoked fish,
marinated mussels, calamari, and kid’s meals.”
It sounded like a great place to buy fresh kaimoana (food from the sea).
I eventually arrived at Kerikeri, a place I had not visited
since being on honeymoon fortysix years ago.
I had thought to visit the model Maori Village there, but it too was closed.
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| The gateway entrance to the Maori village |
Across the river from me (accessed by a footbridge) was the
historic Stone Store and Kemp House, part of the Mission Station that was
established here in 1819.
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| The Mission Station at Kerikeri |
The Stone Store was built in 1832 and has served as a
warehouse, trading post, library, army barracks, boys’ school, and general
store (not all at the same time!). Today
it operates as a gift and souvenir shop.
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| The Georgian-style Stone Store |
On the outskirts of Paihia is found the Raruru Falls, a five
metre high waterfall on the Waitangi River.
I was lucky to find a car park as the place was busy with tourists and
families. There were many people
swimming in the rock pools above the falls, and the rest of us were busy taking
photographs!
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| Raruru Falls near Paihia |
A visit to Waitangi was another must, and I went there next. The Treaty of Waitangi was signed here in
1840 between English colonists and Maori chiefs, and is regarded as our nation’s
founding document. A lot of controversy
still surrounds this Treaty, and I was pleased to see that the Museum presented
both sides of the history in a fairly unbiased manner.
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| The flagpole on the large sweep of lawn |
The building now known as the Treaty House was built around
1833 as a home for the governor James Busby and his family. It is one of New Zealand’s oldest surviving
buildings.
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| Waitangi Treaty House |
Beautiful cottage gardens have been established around the
outside of the house, including fruit trees and grape vines. So very different from when I last visited
and the house was a lonely lifeless building that smelt musty and echoed
badly. The restoration of house and
garden is great to see.
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| Part of the cottage garden surrounding the Treaty House |
Close by the Treaty House is a Maori Meeting House, built in
1940 to celebrate 100 years since the Treaty was signed. Together the two buildings are meant to symbolise
partnership between the British Crown and the Maori people. The house itself reflects the stories and
carving styles of different tribes around New Zealand, and, after removing my
shoes, I had a quick look inside.
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| Carvings and woven panels inside the Meeting House |
The evening was calm and warm and perfect for an evening stroll. I wandered down from my motel to downtown
Paihia and drank in the atmosphere. There
were a lot of people around, patronising one of many different eateries or
doing some souvenir shopping. I thought
this statue of a swordfish beside the wharf was rather appropriate, as a lot of
deep sea fishing excursions begin here.
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| Swordfish statue on Paihia Wharf |
Paihia had a lovely holiday atmosphere, and one day I hope I
can return and explore it further.
Bye for now,
Margaret.
